Vole Explosion

Saturday 2^nd March 2024

EMSWORTH TO HAYLING ISLAND

   Last September I completed the coast of Sussex, and next up is the county of Hampshire. Sitting more-or-less dead centre of the English south coast, Hampshire feels like a watershed between the south-east and the south-west of England. Sussex is definitely in the south-east, still within the orbit of London, and Dorset is undoubtedly in the south-west. But Hampshire, sandwiched in between, feels like neither one nor the other – south-central, maybe.

   For the next few days my walk coincides with the Solent Way long distance path that runs for 60 miles (96 km) along the Solent – the stretch of water between the mainland and the Isle of Wight. At its eastern end, the Solent Way begins in the town of Emsworth and this is where I start my walk, right on the border of two counties.

   I don’t set off until early afternoon, but I’m only doing a short day today. It has been a fairly wet winter and I’m aware that by hiking in March I’m taking a bit of a gamble with the weather, especially as I’ll be camping for the first five nights. Consequently, I’ve packed a larger tent than I would normally take plus lots of warm and waterproof clothes. A couple of people in Emsworth comment on the large size of my backpack and ask how far I’m walking, but in reality I’ll only be carrying it for two days out of eight, and both of them will cover deliberately short distances.

   I follow a route in front of the waterside buildings and only just manage to get through ahead of the rising tide. After a quick drink in a pub, I look back and see that the route I had taken a few minutes earlier is now submerged and impassable. On the waterfront a man is feeding a group of swans gathered around him. He is stooped low to make himself the same height as the birds and is affectionately nuzzling them with his head as he hands out food from a bag.

   A very pleasant path heads west from Emsworth and there are quite a few people out today as it is a Saturday and the sun is occasionally shining. I stick close to the water’s edge around Conigar Point, despite signs telling me to take an inland route during high tide. Only one part of the path is submerged by the sea but it isn’t too deep and I manage to get through. A man coming the other way in wellingtons is carrying his wife on his back.

   Further along I meet another couple coming towards me and warn them that there is some wading up ahead. I think about telling the woman that the last guy carried his wife across, but I decide against raising her expectations and potentially causing marital strife.

   Soon I see Hayling Island up ahead, with cars passing along the bridge that joins it to the coast. The Solent Way continues along the mainland, but Hayling Island is my destination and I’m booked onto a campsite there. Before reaching the bridge I pass Langstone mill and mill pond. It is very picturesque, and there are two very nice waterfront pubs.

   It is now late afternoon and, with a clear sky, the temperature has dropped considerably, but it definitely feels like spring is on the way. A flock of Brent Geese on the harbour, winter visitors from northern Siberia, are squabbling and flirting amongst themselves. They can feel that spring is coming and will soon be flying off to their Arctic breeding grounds.

   With only about an hour of daylight left, I cross the bridge and catch a bus to the campsite.

3.4 miles; 5.5km; 3.5 hours

The Oven Campsite, Hayling Island (£20)