Vole Explosion

Friday 11^th November 2022

RYE TO ST LEONARDS

   Despite what my last couple of posts might suggest, I’m not always on the East coast. Sometimes, like this week, I’m on the South coast. This is the latest chapter in a long-running challenge to walk all the way around the coast of Great Britain. I started thirteen years ago and have been doing a little bit every year. Back in 2009 I set off from my home in Cambridge and walked north through The Fens for three days until I reached King’s Lynn. I then headed up the eastern side of The Wash to Hunstanton and turned right. I’ve completed Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex, Greater London (including both sides of the Thames as far inland as Teddington Lock), and finally Kent. So I was already well into this walk before I started blogging about it. One day I might write about the bits I’ve already done, but not now. If you’re looking for days 1 to 92, don’t bother – they don’t exist. You’ve started in the right place. On this leg I’m tackling the Sussexes – that’s East and West Sussex, NOT Harry and Meghan.

   Back in June I completed Kent and finished off in the attractive town of Rye, East Sussex. They then cancelled all the trains without warning and I had to share a taxi with a load of other stranded passengers – the train company never refunded me. This was my first taste of the terrible train services in this part of the country. I’m looking at you, Southern Rail! Fortunately, this morning’s train journeys are a breeze, leaving early before the commuter crowds arrive and changing in London and Ashford International.

   Arriving in Rye with a comfortable 11kg pack weight, I start walking straight away and head parallel to the River Rother towards the coast, with the Sussex Wildlife Trust’s Rye Harbour Nature Reserve to my right. A sign warns me not to eat any of the fruits, berries, animals or plants found here. I’m outraged! What kind of nature reserve doesn’t allow you to eat the animals? It’s political correctness gone mad! I’ve already eaten three owls and a badger before I even see the sign. How was I supposed to know?

   I pass through Rye Harbour village, with an ivy-covered Martello tower, and then pop into the reserve’s swanky visitor centre for a quick peek. The reserve actually looks really good, with lots of paths to explore and huge numbers of birds on the marshes (including a massive, wheeling flock of Golden Plovers), but I don’t have time to visit today and can only skirt around the edge.

   I reach the sea and turn right, into a strong headwind, to continue along the coast. The path is easy and flat. I pass the old lifeboat house where the lifeboat Mary Stanford was kept until she capsized in 1928, with the loss of all 17 of her crew – the largest loss of life from a single lifeboat in the history of the RNLI.

   Further along, a little Weasel runs across the track and disappears into the undergrowth. Mustelids (Stoats, Weasels, etc.) are supremely agile and inquisitive little predators. They can often be lured back out into the open by making squeaking sounds on the back of your hand, in imitation of injured prey. This particular Weasel treats my squeaky efforts with the contempt they deserve and remains out of view.

   Beyond Winchelsea Beach the path runs along the top of the beach with a road and the grazing marshes of Pett Level on my right. These are much lower than sea level and must be prone to flooding during high tides and storms. I see two Swallows near here, hawking for insects over the Royal Military Canal – easily the latest I’ve ever seen them in the UK, which shows how Summery the weather still is.

   At Pett Level village the flat walking ends and I have to head steeply uphill, eventually coming out into the open at a scenic viewpoint over Fairlight Cove. A Peregrine Falcon flashes by overhead – they really have become common over these south coast cliffs. Fairlight village takes a bit of navigating to find my way through the suburban houses, but soon I’m in Hastings Country Park. This is a nice place but the walking is unexpectedly hard work. The park consists of a series of gullies that all have to be walked down and then back up again. This has to be the hardest part of the coast so far – more like fell walking than coast walking – but I’m sure there will be plenty more of this the further west I go.

   At the western end of the park I reach the East Cliff Lift lookout point. The lift itself is closed but there is a spectacular view over Hastings.

I make my way back down to sea level and stop for a beer at The Dolphin pub. Oh, did I mention this isn’t just a hike, it’s also a pub crawl – possibly the longest pub crawl in Britain? I have a rule whereby I can’t pass an open pub without going in for a pint. This seemed like a good idea thirteen years ago on the Norfolk coast, where the pubs are spaced a reasonable distance apart, but in urban areas with a high concentration of pubs it can get a bit messy. Still, I don’t make the rules. Ok, I did make that particular rule, but that’s not the point. The rule has been made now, and if I don’t obey it there’ll be anarchy. I might not be the first person to walk around the coast of Britain, but I might just be the drunkest. And surely that counts for something, right?

   After the pub I walk a short way East and use the last of the daylight to take pictures of the photogenic fishing quarter of Hastings, before continuing west.

I’m forced by circumstances beyond my control to stop off at another three pubs – The Royal Standard, The London Trader, and The Jolly Fisherman. It’s still warm enough to sit outside even though the sun has now gone down. There are plenty more pubs along the seafront but I’ll deal with them later. I continue along the prom to St Leonards, where my hotel is booked. I pass the pier and notice it’s closed for the season. That’s a shame as it breaks my so far 100% record of visiting every pier along the coast. I’ve been to Hastings before but I can’t remember if I visited the pier.

   I check into the hotel and find that my single room literally has just a single bed in it despite being easily big enough to fit a double – not sure why they would do that. It’s quite nice though, and the bed is comfy. Shared bathroom unfortunately.

After a rest I go out again for some food (and a couple more pubs). Hastings seems really nice on a Friday night with a good atmosphere – plenty of people around but nowhere is too crowded and rowdy.

14.5 Miles; 23.5 km; 9.5 hours

OYO Eagle House Hotel, St Leonards (£40)